Printed Textiles of India

Printing is the process of applying colour to fabric in definite patterns or designs. In properly printed fabrics the colour is bonded with the fiber, so as to resist washing and friction. Textile printing is related to dyeing but, whereas in dyeing proper the whole fabric is uniformly covered with one colour, in printing one or more colours are applied to it in certain parts only, and in sharply defined patterns.

Traditional textile printing techniques may be broadly categorized into three styles:

1)      Direct Printing such as Kalamkari, Rogan, Sanganeri printing, etc.

2)      Resist Printing such as Dabu, Ajarakh etc.

3)      Discharge Printing 

 Rogan Printing

    

      Rogan printing and painting is one such traditional textile craft of Kutch in Gujarat. It is a conventional art of hand printing and painting influenced by Persian art. The word Rogan literally means oil based painting in Persia. This art was originated in Iran and was brought to India about 200 years ago through there is no historical evidence or support to this statement.

     

     Rogan printing is on the verge of extinction as only two families in Nirona village of Kutch and three families in Viramgam, Wadhwan and Ahmedabad are practicing this craft. Due to lack of awareness regarding this craft amongst the Indian consumers, the younger generation is no longer interested in continuing with this craft. It requires not only skill but patience, concentration, a sense of proportion, an aesthetic appreciation and not to mention visual co – ordination.

      

       It’s still practiced as a traditional craft by ‘Chippas’, hereditary craft persons belonging to Hindu & Muslim communities in Kutch district in Gujarat. Stick or iron rods with tapered ends and metal blocks with wooden handle (Block is hollowed in which printing paste is filled) are used for Rogan printing or painting.

The art of rogan printing on cloth dates back to centuries. This art came into India from the Afridis, originated in Syria; the route was through Persia, Afghanistan and Pakistan. The craft concentrated in the Northwestern parts of India, and was practiced mainly by the Muslim descendents of Afridis. Later, it was found that rogan craft was practiced not only by the Afridis but also in Peshawar, Lahore and Pathan, where linseed oil was used where as in Kutch; castor oil was used for the preparation of rogan paste. The product came to be called as Afridi lac cloths or Peshawar lac cloths.

        During earlier times, a Natural source such as stone was used while later, plant sources were also used to extract dyes. Colours such as white, red, yellow, blue, green, orange and black were used in pure form. Today, artisans have switched over synthetic dyes. Artisans were used napthol dyes for preparation of the colouring paste.

        Rogan is done two ways. One, Rogan paste is made from castor oil & natural dyes like mud, leaves, and plants pounded by hands & heated on a slow fire. Resulting colour pastes are kept in earthen pots or plastic containers & mixed with water to keep them from drying. Then printer dips a thin iron rod into pot of coloured paste, takes pastes & places it on his left first. The cotton mulmul fabric is spread on his lap. Skillfully, he lifts the sticky paste in a thread like consistency, with the rod & paints the design on the cloth. 

          Another technique is embedded in a thick residue called Khadi, obtained from casting hot safflower, castor or linseed oil in cold water. This paste is mixed with chalk powder, colour pigment & a binder agent to form a thick dye.

        

         Application of the pattern is hand printed with small block of special pattern, in this ready paste is filled in the metal blocks which are hollow & pressed out the design area.

        Motifs of Khadi are floral, geometrical, birds and animals. Colours used are indigo, blue, red, yellow, orange, green white and black. Gold and silver dusts are used for richer effect. 

Difference between Rogan and Khadi:

   ‘Rogan’ is an ancient Persian word meaning ‘paste from oil.’ While Khadi is also known as Tinsel Printing. 

    Rogan was painting done by hand. Rogan painting printer dips a thin iron rod into pot of coloured paste, takes pastes & places it on his left first. The cotton mulmul fabric is spread on his lap. Skillfully, he lifts the sticky paste in a thread like consistency, with the rod & paints the design on the cloth.

    While in Khadi the pattern is hand printed with small block of special pattern, in this ready paste is filled in the metal blocks which are hollow & pressed out the design area.

    Motifs in rogan were always had mirror image and significantly different than Tinsel Printing (done with metal blocks) which were more towards the nature. Rogan always had motifs painted in bold outlines with subdued base colours while Tinsel had motifs printed intricately, more finely and with sharp edges. Tinsel Printing is always done with gold and silver colours on dark coloured background.

    Traditionally the floral, geometrical and calligraphy motifs were used for the art of rogan paintings. During ancient period, the calligraphy motifs were used in Persian alphabets. The bird motifs were used only by Hindu Khatri craftsmen in Ahmedabad. These motifs were used as all over pattern. Mainly two layouts were used for motif placement i.e. border and all over. The motifs painted by Hindu Khatri craftsmen were large bird motifs with broad outline. They were incorporated bigger bird motifs which were not seen in rogan painted product of Kutch. 

Rogan Painted Sample:  

Article: Rogan Textile

Origin: Gujarat

Fabric: Cotton

Fabric Colour: Navy Blue, Yellow, Light Yellow and Orange

Style of Printing: Hand Painted

         Rogan painting is totally done by hand on cloth. The printer dips a thin iron rod into pot of coloured paste, takes pastes & places it on his left first. The cotton fabric is spread on his lap. Skillfully, he lifts the sticky paste in a thread like consistency, with the rod & paints the design on the cloth, as mention earlier. In this sample, the background of the artifact had navy blue colour. Rogan was done on the fabric by hand painting. The field of the artifact had floral, leaves and bird motifs in yellow and orange colour. The border of the artifact was the combinations of several bands of interlace patterns in orange, yellow and light yellow. The border of the artifact created a scalloped effect.



Khadi Printed Textiles:

Article: Odhani

Origin: Gujarat

Fabric: Chiffon

Fabric Colour: Red, Yellow, Orange and Green

Style of Printing: Direct Printing

Class of Printing: Hand Block Printing

  In Khadi the pattern is hand printed with small block of special pattern, in this ready paste is filled in the metal blocks which are hollow & pressed out the design area. The background of the odhani had red colour. Khadi motifs were hand block printed on the Odhani in white, yellow and green colour. The floral motifs were printed in tiny dots. The pallav of odhani had two broad bands, one with rhombus shape and another with small floral motifs. Below the bands pan vel border was block printed in white and yellow colour.

                               
                                                                         

Article:  Khadi Printed sample

Origin: Gujarat

Fabric: Cotton

Fabric Colour:  Yellow and Golden

Style of Printing: Direct Printing

Class of Printing: Hand Block Printing 

        

        Khadi printing is done with metal blocks. While the Khadi is wet, gold or silver zari in powder form are sprinkled on the printing simultaneously by using the on cloth. The field of the sample was block (Khadi) printed all over with floral motifs in golden zari at half brick repeat on yellow background. The borders of the sample were also Khadi printed, had motifs flower creepers in scroll pattern. The triangular motifs were also printed just above the border with golden zari.

Article: Odhani (Tinsel)

Origin: Gujarat

Fabric: Polyester

Fabric Colour:  Dark Pink and Golden

       Style of Printing: Direct Printing

Class of Printing: Hand Block Printing 

    The roghan is also done with gold or silver foil. While the roghan is wet, foil is stuck on the roghan motif and then due to application of heat the design area takes up the foil. The field of this odhani was foil (roghan) printed all over across the width in the form of wavy lines at various intervals in golden foil on dark pink coloured background. 

Article: Odhani (Tinsel)

Origin: Gujarat

Fabric: Polyester

Fabric Colour:  Green and Golden

Style of Printing: Direct Printing

Class of Printing: Hand Block Printing 

        Golden or silver foil is also used to print Tinsel to give richer look to the fabric. It is done after the printing is complete with the paste, then foil is stuck on the motif and then due to application of heat the design area takes up the foil. In this artifact paste was first block printed in the form of small dots. Then foil was stuck on it and heat was applied, so the field of the odhani was foil +

printed all over in the form of small dots on green coloured background. The printing was done with golden foil. The gota patti was attached to the odhani on four sides as well as across the width just above the end to enhance the aesthetic appeal of it.

* All this samples can be seen at 'Textile Art Museum', Department of Clothing and Textiles, Faculty of Family and Community Sciences, The Maharaja Sayajirao University of Baroda, Vadodara - 390002, Gujarat, India.